Monday, June 29, 2015

Day 3: Crossing the Border

Today was another busy day, but for slightly less exciting reasons: switching hotels.  But I made it to Wales!

This morning I finished exploring Chester, going to the Grosvenor Bridge (below) and St John the Baptist's Church.  When the Grosvenor Bridge opened in 1832 it was the longest single-span arch bridge in the world.  It is a beautiful bridge over the River Dee and there is a nice walkway running along it (and much of the river), providing a great place for a stroll in Chester.  This path also goes by the Chester Racecourse, also known as the Roodee, which is considered the oldest horse racing course in the country.



From there I headed to St John's, the original cathedral of Chester.  Despite a beautiful exterior, I found the interior a bit disappointing.  The cathedral does have a lot of great history though.  With its origins in the 7th century, the church saw the rise of the Anglo-Saxons, use as a cathedral and then demotion to a parish church, destruction during the Dissolution of the Monasteries, lead being taken by Queen Elizabeth I to arm her forces, action during the English Civil War, and much more.  After touring and soaking in some history, I picked up my bag and headed to the train.

The train to Prestatyn was surprisingly packed and, since I was just riding two stops, I stood, doing my best to watch the countryside switch from English to Welsh.  I got to Prestatyn and proceeded to haul my suitcase to my hotel which is right on the beach.  Prestatyn is mainly a resort town, but as it's not high season yet, the town is pretty empty.  The sea air was very refreshing and I walked along the beach for a bit.

After a brief rest in my hotel, I headed out to find a Roman bathhouse!  After a lengthy walk and almost missing the gate to the site, I found the little Roman ruin.  The bathhouse itself was only roughly 600 square feet.  In this small space, a caldarium (hot room), tepidarium (warm room), frigidarium (cold room), and a cold plunge bath (I'm unsure of the appropriate term for this...possibly a loutron).  The context of the bathhouse is unclear; it is quite small, possibly appropriate for a small fort or a small settlement.  There are theories that it was created by soldiers from the Legio XX, the legion stationed in Chester, to support a lead mining operation.  Apparently there was abundant evidence discovered and hinted at in the surrounding area, but this has since been lost.  A developer was allowed to build homes over the area, covering the remains of a possibly Roman settlement.  To here more about the site before this and the results of the building check out these two posts: http://www.chesterwalls.info/baths.html
http://www.chesterwalls.info/baths2.html


So I left the bathhouse with more questions than answers (but ones I am excited to investigate further!).  I meandered my way back towards my hotel and angled my way through Prestatyn's town center.  It was around 5 and almost everything was already shut down for the day.  It was very cute and quaint main street, lined with small stores and restaurants.  As I turned to head back towards my hotel, I noticed a great white monument in a church graveyard.  I went to explore and found that it was a beautiful and solemn monument to the local sons who had died in both World Wars.  It was sort of the perfect thing to end the day: a beautiful and dignified reminder of the past in a tranquil seaside town.


(Oops, forgot this in an earlier version!) Fun Fact #3: Holyhead, an island off another island, Anglesey, and where I am headed tomorrow, is actually pronounced "hollyhead," like the flowering plant.

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